In Tahoe, a family from Berkley, lodging nearby, recommended we head to Fish. for lunch as soon as we arrived in the San Francisco area. Located in a small, quiet marina, Fish. was the perfect introduction to Bay-area seafood without the hassle of the city. The atmosphere was casual, and we ate outside by the pier, before making the easy drive over to tour Muir Woods. 

Just a half hour’s drive from the city, Muir Woods National Monument protects 554 acres, 240 of which are old growth coast redwoods. As soon as you enter the park, all noise, other than the sounds of streams and birds, seem to fade, the cathedral of benevolent trees commanding a hush that even our normally boisterous children obeyed. 

There is something purely magical about these ancient, giant trees and the fern-filled forest floor surrounding them. The park itself is very well-maintained, especially considering the foot traffic it must get. Wood-planked trails ensure that the delicate forest’s ecosystem remains untouched, but visitors are still able to feel fully surrounded by the trees and a part of the landscape. 

After the kids stamped their National Park passports, we headed to Cavallo Point, formerly Fort Baker, an army outpost charged with protecting the north side of the Golden Gate. The hotel offers beautiful views of the Golden Gate Bridge and has plenty of space for road-worn kids (and their parents) to run around. It’s also close to the Marin Headlands, where we would have taken in a nice hike if we’d had more time. We chose to stay there because it’s a little outside the city, but offers transportation in, so we wouldn’t have to worry about driving/parking and/or car break-ins for our day in San Fran. That night, our sweet friend, Danielle, drove up to Cavallo with her 2 year old and 7 month old to have dinner with us. It was so much fun to catch up with her and to get to know her kiddos – AND, she brought us a stroller, something we never could have enjoyed hilly San Francisco without! 

The next morning, we woke up early and took Cavallo’s shuttle in to San Francisco, stopping at touristy Pier 39 so our kids could see the seals and take a look (but not a tour!) of Alcatraz before heading to the Exploratorium. 

We waffled on whether or not to go to the Exploratorium since many of its exhibits would probably be a little too advanced for our children’s ages, but we’d heard so many rave reviews we decided to take a chance. 

The kids loved it, especially Claire, who told us, after the microscope exhibit, that she wanted to be a scientist who studies germs when she grows up. All three loved the exhibits on light, Elizabeth enjoyed a social teaching game using the word “trust,” (her choice) and Peter had a blast  “making” a tornado by walking around and around in a circle. We were there for a couple of hours, but with older kids you could absolutely spend an entire day there and be completely entertained. 

When we arrived that morning, it was chilly, foggy and misty, just as it should have been,  but sunlight broke through as we exited the Exploratorium, giving us a stunning day to take in the rest of the city. 

We hopped on a streetcar that took us to Chinatown, but we didn’t know it was cash-only and didn’t have a way to pay. The driver, a very friendly guy named Mike, told us not to worry about it and gave us five transfers, meaning free bus transportation for the rest of the day. It was an act of hospitality that made getting around the city so much easier, if only because we didn’t have to worry about finding an ATM. The girls, who each desperately wanted a “real” parasol, were the driving force behind our trip in to Chinatown, and truly, it was so fun to walk through such a unique part of the city. 

 
From there, we walked up-slope, pushing 40 lbs in a stroller and carrying another 40 in our arms when she got tired, to a great little playground in Nob Hill. We stopped for a late lunch at Nob Hill Cafe, where the homemade pasta was worth the long wait. 

After lunch, the kids were pretty tired, and Andrew and I were getting a workout from all the carrying and stroller-pushing we were doing on those San Francisco hills. We decided to go to the Presidio for a little rest and had a wonderful elderly lady go out of her way to help us research the best bus route to get there. She conferred with the bus driver and two other passengers, all of whom showed us so much kindness. It was a great lesson in doing something small that can change someone else’s day in a big way. 

After hanging out for a while in the Presidio, we went to the Pacific Heights neighborhood to have dinner with the Barrets. A friend of Andrew’s from college, Phil Barret and his wife, Vicki, have three boys and live in a beautiful place with a killer view of the city. It was amazing for our kids to have friends their age to play with again, in a play room, and it was great for Andrew to reconnect with Phil in a city that he’s made his own. 

By the end of the day, we were exhausted in the best of ways. There had been no frustration in getting around the city thanks to the hospitable strangers we met along the way, and we felt like we’d experienced as much of the city as we possibly could, thanks to kids willing to trek through San Francisco’s hilly, but beautiful neighborhoods.