We squeezed every ounce of hiking and fun out of Banff and the surrounding area as we possibly could. 

When we rolled into town on Friday afternoon, Lake Louise was our first stop. You’ve probably seen photos of this lake – other-worldly green water against a snowy mountain background – and it truly is as beautiful as it’s portrayed in iconic photos. It was also packed with tourists. 

I’d read a little about the Lady Agnes Tea House hike, and when I say “a little” that’s what I mean. The words “family friendly” appeared in one description, I do know that. But in retrospect, I’m pretty sure they didn’t mean “family with a four year old.” At any rate, we were eager to get away from the crowds, so we hiked it. 

The trail was beautiful and, by grown up, “we like to hike” standards, it was also not too long – a little less than five miles.   Near the top, we were rewarded with incredible views and a small, silvery pond called Mirror Lake. At the very top, where the tea house was perched, the views were even more spectacular, as was the waterfall and yet another greenish lake.  

Still, it was a steep climb for short little legs nearing the end of the day, and Andrew and I took turns carrying our 45 lb four year old up, up, up. Claire, who is 8, was pretty awesome (she ran the last quarter mile or so), and Elizabeth, 5, applied impressive grit and determination to arrive at the top in good spirits. 

We all almost fell apart when we realized the tea house had closed fifteen minutes before our arrival and that there would be no hot chocolate as promised, over and over again, for the past two miles. But they gave us free lemonade for the hike down.  

All the grumpiness dissipated as we reached the bottom of the trail and the kids realized they’d hiked almost five miles (2.5 for Peter – he was happy to hike downhill). It was a victorious moment. They can do hard things! It’s a lesson we will come back to again, for sure. 

The next day, we told the kids we wouldn’t make them hike, but Andrew and I were overcome by the description of the Grassi Lakes (named for a master trail builder). This one was only three miles and an easier climb. They were good sports and loved the glowing, translucent pools at the top, and the views of a magnificent waterfall on the way down. 

That afternoon, we strolled Banff Ave., where the kids were treated to ice cream, souveniers and popcorn, and then headed back to Canmore for pool time and dinner. It was one of those rare days when we found a balance between what the adults and the kids wanted to do, and we managed to fit it all in. 

The next day, we promised the kids no hiking and meant it. Instead, we drove to Lake Moraine, west of Lake Louise, and got in two canoes. Andrew was in a boat with Claire and Peter, while Elizabeth and I teamed up. 

Canoeing was such a nice change of pace. It got us out of the crowd on the shore, and it empowered our kiddos to try something they’d never done before. At the end of the trip around the lake, Andrew stood up quickly to help Peter out of the canoe and forgot that his phone was in his lap. It bounced once on the rim of the boat and sank seven feet down to the bottom of Moraine. 

Andrew dove in behind it, much to Claire & Peter’s amusement (and possibly many others’), and miraculously(!) it turned on the next morning with all the photos from our trip intact. It no longer works for him to use as a phone, though, and he can’t send or receive texts. So if you’ve tried to reach him and haven’t heard back, that’s why. A replacement should arrive sometime in the next week. 

After Moraine, we headed to Banff’s historic Fairmont Hotel, a beautiful old building within walking distance of the town center and home to yet another spectacular Canadian waterfall. 

We ate a late lunch outside there, surrounded by gorgeous views on all sides, and walked down to see the waterfall. Afterwards, we drove back in to Canmore for one last swim. 

The next day, we sadly said goodbye to beautiful Banff – truly, one of the most heavenly places I’ve ever been – and to Canada altogether. After nine days in British Columbia and Alberta, it was time to head back to the United States, by way of Glacier National Park.